Sunday, May 6 -- Israel

We went ashore early at Haifa for a 2-day stay in Israel. It seemed like a bad start when Larry lost his hat before we left the lounge. He ran back for his other one, while I made my way to the bus. I had a few minutes chat with our guide, Moshe. Great guy, and wonderful guide. Larry got there before it began to be a problem, and we were on our way. Moshe gave us a running account of where we were going, why it was significant and the related stories. We began in Nazareth, where Jesus lived much of his life. It was a village then, but now is a city. The kids were all running a marathon, so we saw many of them go by. We stopped at a souvenir shop that has good washrooms, and there was a bit of shopping, then on to the Basilica of the Annunciation (built over the grotto where Gabriel brought the news to Mary) and the Church of St. Joseph (over Joseph's carpentry shop). These are beautiful places, but of course after 2000 years, not really recognizable. We drove through Cana, where many of the shops have signs such as "Cana Miracle Wedding Wine". Not too respectful perhaps, but certainly amusing. Capernaum is an area of ruins including a synagogue where Jesus preached. Nearby is a beautiful, modern "floating" church over the site of the home of St. Peter. Many implements and decorative columns have also been excavated at this site. Perhaps the most moving moment of the day came when one of the members of the group (who must be a pastor, though I don't know for sure) read the Beatitudes to us, while we stood at the Mount of Beatitudes. Moshe had asked us to imagine it as it was 2000 years ago and described the scene for us. It became very real. This site is owned and run by Franciscan monks and is lovely and serene. The octagonal church is peaceful and light-filled. At Tabgha we walked to the shore of the Sea of Galilee and visited the Church of the Primacy of St. Peter. This simple chapel marks the place where Jesus told St. Peter that he was the rock on whom the church would be built. Nearby is the much larger Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes, but it is closed to visitors on Sunday. Our lunch was at the Kibbutz Ein Gev, on the shore of the Sea of Galilee -- very nice meal. We had crossed a small stream that was up-river, but when we stopped at the Jordan River near its mouth at the Sea of Galilee, it was a reasonable-sized but slow-moving river. The site is called Yardenit. This is not where Jesus is thought to have been baptized by John, but has been developed as a Baptism site for pilgrims. We saw many people in white robes walking down into the river and immersing themselves. As well, other groups were praying, singing and having the water poured over their heads. More interesting for us, though, was the sight of huge catfish swimming around the area, and we even spotted one muskrat. As we drove along, we could see the Golan Heights looming over us, and sharp contrasts between areas that are irrigated and farmed and those that are waste land. Moshe tried to give us an idea of what has happened, is happening and likely will happen to the borders of Israel. He is very optimistic that peaceful solutions can be found. Suddenly, as we rounded a bend in the road, we could see Jerusalem! We drove first to a high point where we could see many of the landmarks, then to the lovely Dan Hotel. It was dinner time, and immediately afterward we re-boarded the bus to drive through one of the areas of the city where many Hassidim live. Moshe explained their way of life and some of its background. Then we visited the Western (or Wailing) Wall. Moshe obtained permission for us to visit the synagogue. First the women, then the men. Along the tunnel leading into the synagogue we could see archaeological excavations into some of the oldest parts of the city and temple. We spent just a few minutes where the women were praying. Then we women went down to the Western Wall while Moshe took the men into the synagogue and out to the wall. At the Wall, men and women pray in different areas. The men's area is about twice the size of the women's area, so our side was very crowded. I found it a very powerfully moving experience to stand and pray with so many, where so many have prayed for centuries. Back at the hotel we were happy to shower and fall into bed.

Photos 6 May